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This standard was drafted according to the requirements of GB/T 1.1-2009.
This standard replaces "Silk Knitting Garments" (FZ/T 43015-2001).
Compared with FZ/T 43015-2001, the main differences of this standard are as follows:
- the requirements of specification and size according to GB/T 6411 were added;
- the assessment item of dry quality tolerance per square meter was removed;
- the bursting strength indexes was modified;
- the color fastness index was modified;
- the assessment items such as decomposable aromatic amine dye and unpleasant smell were added;
- the inspection rules requirements were modified.
- marking and package requirements were modified;
- the transportation and storage requirements were added.
This standard was proposed by China National Textile and Apparel Council.
This standard is under the jurisdiction of National Technical Committee on Silk Standardization Administration of China (SAC/TC 401).
Drafting organizations of this standard: Hangzhou Meibiao Industry Co., Ltd., Hangzhou Institute of Calibration and Testing for Quality and Technical Supervision, Zhejiang Silk Sc. and Tech Co., Ltd., Xinyuan Cocoon Silk Group Co., Ltd., High Fashion Silk (Zhejiang) Co., Ltd., Huzhou Meiyue Silk Knitting Group Co., Ltd and Zhejiang Misai Silk Co., Ltd.
Chief drafting staff of this standard: Gu Hongfeng, Lin Shengwei, Zhou Ying, Gu Hu, Mei Dexiang, Shi Jijun, Yu Dan and Yu Yongda.
The previous edition of standard replaced by this standard is as follows:
- FZ/T 43015-2001.
Contents
Foreword I
1 Scope 1
2 Normative References 1
3 Specification and Size 2
4 Requirements 2
5 Test Methods 7
6 Inspection Rules 8
7 Marking, Package, Transportation and Storage 9
8 Others 10
Appendix A (Informative) Inspection Sampling Plan 11
Silk Knitting Garments
桑蠶絲針織服裝
1 Scope
This standard specifies the specification and size, requirements, test methods, inspection rules, marking, package, transportation and storage.
This standard is applicable to the quality appraisal of silk knitting garments and may also be referenced for silk and other fiber mixed and interwoven knitting garments.
This standard is not applicable to the noil silk knitting garments.
2 Normative References
The following documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated references, only the dated edition applies. For undated references, the latest edition (including all the amendments) of the normative document applies.
GB/T 250 Textiles - Tests for Color Fastness - Grey Scale for Assessing Change in Color
GB/T 1335 (All Parts) Standard Sizing Systems for Garments
GB/T 2828.1-2003 Sampling Procedures for Inspection by Attributes - Part1: Sampling Schemes Indexed by Acceptance Quality Limit (AQL) for Lot-by-lot Inspection
GB/T 2910 (All Parts) Textiles - Quantitative Chemical Analysis
GB/T 2912.1 Textiles - Determination of Formaldehyde - Part 1: Free and Hydrolyzed Formaldehyde (Water Extraction Method)
GB/T 3920 Textiles - Tests for Color Fastness - Color Fastness to Rubbing
GB/T 3921-2008 Textiles - Tests for Color Fastness - Color Fastness to Soaping
GB/T 3922 Textiles - Testing Method for Color Fastness to Perspiration
GB 5296.4 Instructions for Use of Products of Consumer Interest - Instructions for Use of Textiles and Apparel
GB/T 5713 Textiles - Tests for Color Fastness - Color Fastness to Water
GB/T 641 A Series of Size of Knitted Underwear
GB/T 7573 Textiles - Determination of pH of the Aqueous Extract
GB/T 8427-2009 Textiles - Tests for Color Fastness - Color Fastness to Artificial Light: Xenon Arc Fading Lamp Test
GB/T 8630 Textiles - Determination of Dimensional Change in Washing and Drying
GB/T 14801 Test Method for Skewness and Bow in Woven and Knitted Fabrics
GB/T 17592 Textiles - Determination of the Banned Azo Colorants
GB 18401-2003 National General Safety Technical Code for Textile Products
GB/T 19976 Textiles - Determination of Bursting Strength - Steel Ball Method
FZ/T 01053 Textiles - Identification of Fiber Content
FZ/T 01057 (All Parts) Test Method for Identification of Textile Fibers
3 Specification and Size
The specification and size of silk knitting garments shall comply with GB/T 1335 or GB/T 6411 and shall be in accordance with the requirements of contract or designed automatically by manufacturer.
4 Requirements
4.1 Item classification
The requirements consist of the inherent quality and appearance quality requirements. The inherent quality covers fiber content, bursting strength, size change rate by water washing, color fastness to washing, color fastness to perspiration, color fastness to rubbing, color fastness to light, formaldehyde content, pH value, decomposable aromatic amine dye and unpleasant smell while the appearance quality covers surface defect, specification and size deviation, size difference in itself and sewing quality.
4.2 Grading requirements
4.2.1 The silk knitting garments are classified into high-grade products, first-grade products and acceptable products.
4.2.2 The quality of silk knitting garments is graded on the basis of pieces: the inherent quality is graded according to batches, and the appearance quality is graded according to pieces and the final grade is determined according to the minimum grade of the inherent and appearance quality.
4.3 Inherent quality requirements
The inherent quality requirements are detailed in Table 1.
Table 1 Inherent Quality Requirements
Item Grade
High-grade product First-grade product Acceptable product
Fiber content tolerance % Complying with FZ/T 01053
Bursting strength a N Pure silk filament yarn fabric 380
Others 200
Size change rate by water washing b % Longitudinal +1.0~-5.0 +2.0~-7.0 +3.0~-9.0
Horizontal +1.0~-4.0 +2.0~-6.0 +3.0~-8.0
Color fastness/grade ≥ Color fastness to washing, to water and to perspiration Discoloration 4 3-4 3
Staining 3 3 3
Color fastness to rubbing Dry rubbing 3-4 3 3
Wet rubbing 3 2-3 2
Color fastness to light 3-4 3 2-3
Formaldehyde content (mg/kg) ≤ Complying with GB 18401
pH value
Decomposable carcinogenic aromatic amine dye (mg/kg)
Unpleasant smell
a Stripe, burnt-out, hollow-out and jacquard fabrics as well as elastic fabric are not required to be assessed.
b Elastic product, leno fabric are not required to be assessed horizontally and brief is not required to be assessed.
4.4 Appearance quality requirements
4.4.1 If appearance defects of different grades are found on the same product, this product shall be graded according to the minimum grade of defect. No more than two fabric defects of the same grade are allowed on the same product; if this limit is exceeded, this product shall be degraded for a grade.
4.4.2 Surface defect requirements are detailed in Table 2.
Table 2 Surface Defect Requirements
Defect name High-grade product First-grade product Acceptable product
Fabric defect Hole and drop stitch Unallowable
Coarse silk, fine silk, oiled silk and color silk Major positions: unallowable; minor positions: one ordinary defect is allowable. Major positions: one ordinary defect of 0.5cm; minor positions: two ordinary defects of 1cm Added up within 5cm
Sparse stitch Unallowable Major positions: unallowable; minor positions: ordinary defect is allowable. Major positions: unallowable; minor positions: visible defect is allowable.
Strip and course mark Unallowable Ordinary defect is allowable. Visible defect is allowable.
Blurred needle Unallowable Major positions: unallowable; minor positions: ordinary defect is allowable. Major positions: ordinary defect is allowable; minor positions: visible defect is allowable.
Stain Light Major positions: unallowable; minor positions: two defects (within 0.5cm in total) Major positions: two defects (within 0.5cm in total); minor positions; three defects (within 1cm in total) Major positions: two defects (within 2cm in total); minor positions: three defects (within 4cm in total)
Deep Major positions: unallowable; minor positions: two defects (within 0.3cm in total) Major positions: two defects (within 0.3cm in total); minor positions: defects within 0.6cm in total Major positions: two defects (within 1cm in total); minor positions: two defects (within 3cm in total)
Color difference Not lower than Grade 4 between basic materials; not lower than Grade 3-4 between main material and auxiliary material Not lower than Grade 3-4 between basic materials; not lower than Grade 3 between main material and auxiliary material
Uneven color and silk abrasion Unallowable Ordinary defect is allowable
Snagging and scratch Unallowable Major positions: unallowable; minor positions: slight defects (within 2cm in total) Major positions: unallowable; minor positions: slight defects (within 5cm in total)
Printing defect Unallowable Major positions: unallowable; minor positions: ordinary defect is allowable Major positions: ordinary defect is allowable; minor positions: visible defect is allowable.
Iron-shine and embossing Unallowable Major positions: unallowable; minor positions: ordinary defect is allowable. Major positions: unallowable; minor positions: visible defect is allowable.
Straying end % ≤ Longitudinal 3.0 4.0 5.0
Horizontal 5.0 6.0 7.0
Sewing and ironing defects Sewing hole Unallowable 2 dispersed and repaired sections
Needle eye Unallowable Ordinary defect is allowable. Visible defect is allowable.
Slant stitch on the bottom 0.3cm at junction; less than 0.2cm for the remaining 0.4cm at junction; less than 0.3cm for the remaining
Drop stitch on the bottom Two stitches at junction; unallowable for the remaining positions Three stitches at junction; two defects (one stitch for each defect) for each of the remaining sides. Five stitches at junction; two defects (one stitch for each defect) for each of the remaining sides.
Twisted and uneven top stitch ≤0.2 cm ≤0.3cm ≤0.4cm
Poor buttonholing and button sewing Unallowable Slight defects
Heavy stitch Unallowable Minor positions：one defect of 3cm Minor positions：two defects of 5cm
Overpress Unallowable Minor positions: slight defects
Iron mark Unallowable Minor positions: allowable Slight defects
Notes:
1 ordinary and slight: difficult to see by eyes; visible: easy to see by eyes but not influential on appearance.
2 if the calculated value of straying end is required to be less than 1cm, 1cm is allowable.
3 other appearance defects not specified in this Table may be graded by reference to that of similar defects.
4.4.3 The requirements of the minor positions are detailed in Figure 1; the remaining positions are major positions.
Tops: 1/6 of the left and right body side seams and the underarm seams
Trousers (skirt): 1/5 of the length of trousers (skirt) under waist and 1/6 of left and right inside trousers seams
Foreword I
1 Scope
2 Normative References
3 Specification and Size
4 Requirements
5 Test Methods
6 Inspection Rules
7 Marking, Package, Transportation and Storage
8 Others
Appendix A (Informative) Inspection Sampling Plan
