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This document is developed in accordance with the rules given in GB/T 1.1-2020 Directives for standardization — Part 1: Rules for the structure and drafting of standardizing documents.
This document replaces FZ/T 73009-2009 Cashmere knitting goods. In addition to editorial changes, the following technical changes have been made with respect to FZ/T 73009-2009:
——The document title is renamed;
——The scope of document has been modified (see Clause 1, Clause 1 of 2009 Edition);
——The normative references are adjusted (see Clause 2, Clause 2 of 2009 Edition);
——The definition of boiled cashmere knitting goods is added (see Clause 3);
——The classification of cashmere knitting goods is added (see Clause 4);
——The basic safety technical requirements for infant and children’s products are added for safety requirements, which shall meet the provisions of GB 31701 (see 5.1, 3.1 of 2009 Edition);
——The product grades are changed to superior product, first-grade product and acceptable product (see 5.2, 3.2 of 2009 Edition);
——The main contents of modification of inherent quality grading are as follows (see Table 1, Tables 1 and 2 of 2009 Edition):
? The fiber content is modified according to GB/T 29862;
? Burst strength is changed to bursting strength;
? Unit of braiding density coefficient is canceled;
? The spirality angle index in the appearance quality grading is included in the inherent quality grading;
? The acceptable product index of dichloromethane-soluble matter is added;
? The assessment indexes of alkylphenol and alkylphenol ethoxylates are added;
? The assessment index of dimensional change rate by dry cleaning is added;
? The color change of color fastness to washing, perspiration, water and dry cleaning and the expression of staining are modified, and the corresponding assessment indexes are adjusted;
? The assessment indexes of color fastness to transfer in joints is added;
? The position of remarks is adjusted and the contents are modified;
——The assessment index of dimensional change rate by water washing is modified and deleted from Table 1, and listed separately as Table 2; (see Table 2, Table 1 of 2009 Edition);
——The main contents of modification of appearance quality grading are as follows (see 5.4, 3.4 of 2009 Edition):
? The basis of appearance quality grading is modified (see 5.4.1, 3.4.1 of 2009 Edition);
? The judgment of the results of the seam elongation test is added (see 5.4.3, 3.4.3 of 2009 Edition);
? The examination classification of unfold dimension of neckhole as children aged 7 and over 7 years old and adults, children under 7 years old and infants is modified, and the judgment of test results is added (see 5.4.4, 3.4.4 of 2009 Edition);
? The assessment requirements and notes of appearance defects are modified (see Table 3, Table 3 of 2009 Edition);
——The main contents of the modification of the test method are as follows (see Clause 6, Clause 4 of 2009 Edition):
? The safety requirements inspection is added (see 6.1);
? The test method for fiber content is adjusted (see 6.2.1, 4.1.1 of 2009 Edition);
? The bursting strength test method and adopted area requirements are adjusted (see 6.2.3, 4.1.3 of 2009 Edition);
? The pilling test method is modified (see 6.2.5, 4.1.5 of 2009 Edition);
? The test method of alkylphenol and alkylphenol ethoxylates is added (see 6.2.8);
? The test method of dimensional change rate by dry cleaning is added (see 6.2.9);
? The test method of color fastness to washing for machine washable products is added (see 6.2.12, 4.1.10 of 2009 Edition);
? The test method of color fastness to transfer in joints is added (see 6.2.17);
? The original test method of relaxation dimensional change rate is modified to the test method of dimensional change rate by water washing (see 6.2.18, 4.1.7 of 2009 Edition);
? The schematic diagram of the inspection method of specifications and dimensions is added, and the description of inspection parts is adjusted (see 6.3.2, 4.2.2 of 2009 Edition);
? The test method of seam elongation is modified according to FZ/T 20031, and the load value is 33N (see 6.3.3, 4.2.3 of 2009 Edition);
? The test method of the unfold dimension of neckhole is modified according to FZ/T 20032, and the load value is 33N (see 6.3.4, 4.2.4 of 2009 Edition);
——The appearance quality sample sampling according to GB/T 2828.1-2012 is modified (see 7.1.6, 5.1.6 of 2009 Edition);
——The judgment requirement that infants and children's products are judged to be rejected if they do not meet the requirements of GB 31701 (see 7.2.3.1, 5.2.3.1 of 2009 Edition);
——The requirements for package and marking are modified (see Clause 9; Clause 7 of 2009 Edition);
——The measuring position of patchwork garment products in the test of dimensional change rate by water washing and dry cleaning is added (see Annex A).
This document was proposed by the China National Textile and Apparel Council.
This document is under the jurisdiction of Subcommittee on Wool Textiles of the National Technical Committee on Textiles of Standardization Administration of China (SAC/TC 209/SC 3).
The previous editions of this document and documents replaced by this document are as follows:
——FZ/T 73009-1997 and FZ/T 73009-2009.
Cashmere knitting goods
1 Scope
This document specifies the term and definition, product classification, technical requirements, test methods, inspection rules, acceptance rules, package and marking of cashmere knitting goods.
This document is applicable to identify the quality of cashmere knitting goods, blended knitting goods with cashmere content of 30% or more, and products made by splicing the above knitted fabrics with other fabrics.
2 Normative references
The following documents contain provisions which, through reference in this text, constitute provisions of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.
GB/T 250 Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Grey scale for assessing change in colour
GB/T 1335 (All parts) Standard sizing systems for garments
GB/T 2828.1-2012 Sampling procedures for inspection by attributes — Part 1: Sampling schemes indexed by acceptance quality limit (AQL) for lot-by-lot inspection
GB/T 2910 (All parts) Textiles — Quantitative chemical analysis
GB/T 3920 Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Colour fastness to rubbing
GB/T 3922 Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Colour fastness to perspiration
GB/T 4802.3 Textiles — Determination of fabric propensity to surface fuzzing and to pilling — Part 3: Pilling box method
GB/T 4841.3 Colour cards of standard depths for dyeing with dyestuffs 2/1, 1/3, 1/6, 1/12, 1/25
GB/T 4856 Package of cotton goods and knitwear
GB/T 5296.4 Instructions for use of products of consumer interest — Part 4: Textiles and apparel
GB/T 5711 Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Colour fastness to dry cleaning using perchloroethylene solvent
GB/T 5713 Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Colour fastness to water
GB/T 7742.1 Textiles — Bursting properties of fabrics — Part 1: Hydraulic method for determination of bursting strength and bursting distension
GB/T 7742.2 Textiles — Bursting properties of fabrics — Part 2: Pneumatic method for determination of bursting strength and bursting distension
GB/T 8427-2019 Textiles — Tests for color fastness — Color fastness to artificial light: Xenon arc
GB/T 9994 Conventional moisture regains of textile materials
GB/T 9995 Determination of moisture content and moisture regain of textile — Oven-drying method
GB/T 10685 Wool — Determination of fiber diameter — Projection microscope method
GB/T 12490-2014 Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Colour fastness to domestic and commercial laundering
GB/T 16988 Quantitative determination for mixtures of special animal fiber and wool
GB 18401 National general safety technical code for textile products
GB/T 19981.2 Textiles — Professional care, drycleaning and wetcleaning of fabrics and garments — Part 2: Procedure for testing performance when cleaning and finishing using tetrachloroethene
GB/T 23322 Textiles — Determination of surfactant — Alkylphenols and alkylphenol ethoxylates
GB/T 29862 Textiles — Identification of fiber content
GB/T 31127-2014 Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Colour fastness to transfer in joints
GB 31701 Safety technical code for infants and children textile products
FZ/T 01026 Textiles — Quantitative chemical analysis — Multinary fibre mixtures
FZ/T 01057 (All parts) Test method for identification of textile fibres
FZ/T 01101 Textile test method — Fiber content — Quantitative physical analysis
FZ/T 01112 Textiles — Quantitative chemical analysis — Mixtures of silk and wool or/and cashmere (method using formic acid and zinc chloride)
FZ/T 20011 Test method for determining the angle of spirality in knitted wool garments
FZ/T 20018 Determination of dichloromethane-soluble matter in wool textiles
FZ/T 20031 Test method for seam elongation of wool knitted goods
FZ/T 20032 Test method for neck opening stretchability of wool knitted goods
FZ/T 70008 Test method for cover factor of wool knitted fabrics
FZ/T 70009-2012 Test method for relaxation dimensional change and felting dimensional change to washing of wool textiles
GSB 16-3239 Standard sample photos of cashmere knitwear pilling
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3 Term and definition
For the purposes of this standard, the following term and definition apply.
3.1
boiled cashmere knitting goods
cashmere knitting goods, which has been specially felted during processing in order to achieve the structural density required by design
4 Product classification
4.1 Classification by product category:
——cardigan, overpull and vest;
——trousers and skirt;
——underwear;
——socks;
——small clothes (including hats, scarves, gloves, etc.);
——patchwork garments.
4.2 Classification by scouring mode:
——dry cleaning;
——hand washing with care;
——machine washable.
5 Technical requirements
5.1 Safety requirements
The basic safety technical requirements of products shall be in accordance with GB 18401, and the basic safety technical requirements of products for infants and children shall be in accordance with GB 31701.
5.2 Grading requirements
5.2.1 The quality of cashmere knitting goods is classified into superior product, first-grade product and acceptable product.
5.2.2 The quality of cashmere knitting goods is graded based on both inherent quality and appearance quality, and is determined by the lower one.
5.2.3 Inherent quality is graded by batch while appearance quality by piece.
5.3 Inherent quality grading
Inherent quality shall be graded according to Table 1 and Table 2, and shall be graded according to the lowest test result.
Table 1 Inherent quality requirements
Item Superior product First-grade product Acceptable product
Fiber content/% In accordance with the requirements of GB/T 29862
Average cashmere fiber fineness a/μm ≤ 15.5 —
Bursting strength b/kPa ≥ Combing Linear density < 20.8tex
(> 48Nm) 196
Linear density ≥ 20.8tex
(≤ 48Nm) 225
Semi-combed and carded 196
Braiding density coefficient c ≥ 1.0 —
Pilling d/grade ≥ 3-4 3 2-3
Spirality angle e/(°) ≤ 5
Dichloromethane-soluble matter f/% ≤ 1.5 1.7 2.5
Alkyl phenol (AP) and alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEO)/(mg/kg) ≤ NP + OP 100
NP + OP + NPEO + OPEO 1,000
Dimensional change rate by dry cleaning g/% Length -5.0 ~ +5.0
Width -5.0 ~ +5.0
Single weight deviation per piece h/% According to the contract of the supplier and purchaser
Color fastness/grade
≥ Color fastness to light i, j Dark color 4 4 4
Light color 3 3 3
Color fastness to washing k Discoloration 3-4 3-4 3
Staining 3-4 3 3
Fastness to perspiration (acid, alkali) Discoloration 3-4 3-4 3
Staining 3-4 3 3
Fastness to water Discoloration 3-4 3-4 3
Staining 3-4 3 3
Color fastness to rubbing i,l Dry rubbing 4 3-4 (deep color 3) 3-4 (deep color 3)
Wet rubbing 3 3 3
Color fastness to dry cleaning m Discoloration 4 3-4 3-4
Staining 4 3-4 3
Color fastness to transfer in joints i,n 4
a The average fineness of cashmere fiber is only assessed for pure cashmere products.
b Bursting strength is only assessed products with 30% or more of plain stitches position; vests and small pieces of clothing are not assessed; yarn linear density refers to the overall linear density of yarns used for braiding.
c Braiding density coefficient is only assessed the plain stitches products in semi-combed and carded products.
d Pilling is not assessed boiled, hollowing out, mesh, long floating threads and napping products; only cashmere fabrics are assessed for patchwork garments.
e Spirality angle only assesses plain stitches products.
f Dichloromethane-soluble matter is only assessed for semi-combed and carded parts with animal hair content above 30%, and products containing polyester fiber, polypropylene fiber, diacetate fiber or triacetate fiber are not assessed.
g The dimensional change rate by dry cleaning is not assessed for the products noted as "No Dry Washing" in the instructions.
h Single weight deviation per piece is not assessed spliced products.
i According to GB/T 4841.3, the color with depth > 1/12 standard depth is regarded as dark color and that with depth ≤1/12 standard depth is regarded as light color.
j Underwear and socks products are not tested for color fastness to light.
k The color fastness to washing is not assessed for the products noted as "No Water Washing" in the instructions.
l The assessment indexes of the color fastness to wet rubbing of silk fabrics and synthetic silk fabrics of the first-grade and acceptable products are reduced by half.
m The color fastness to dry cleaning is not assessed for the products noted as "No Dry Washing" in the instructions.
n Color fastness to transfer in joints is assessed only for product spliced with dark and light color, not for the products noted as "No Water Washing" in the instructions.
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Table 2 Index requirements for dimensional change rate by water washing
Item Requirement
Cardigan, overpull and vest Trousers, skirt, patchwork garment Underwear Sock Small pieces of clothing
Hand washing with care a Relaxation dimensional change rate b/% Length -5.0 ~ +5.0
Width -5.0 ~ +5.0
Washing procedures 1×7A
Machine washable type a Relaxation dimensional change rate b/% Length -5.0 ~ +5.0 — -5.0 ~ +5.0 — —
Width -5.0 ~ +5.0 — -5.0 ~ +5.0 — —
Washing procedures 1×7A
Felting dimensional change rate/% Length — — — -5.0 ~ +5.0 —
Area -8.0 ~ +8.0 — -8.0 ~ +8.0 — -8.0 ~ +8.0
Washing procedures 2 × 5A
Total dimensional change rate/% Length — -5.0 ~ +5.0 — — —
Width — -5.0 ~ +5.0 — — —
a The types of hand washing with care and machine washable types are not assessed for the products noted as "No Water Washing" in the instructions.
b Plain stitches product is only assessed in the width direction of relaxation dimension change rate.
5.4 Appearance quality grading
5.4.1 Physical appearance quality
Appearance quality includes style, pattern, surface appearance, color, feel, workmanship, etc. According to the sealed samples confirmed by the supplier and the purchaser or those produced by the manufacturer, the products that meet the sealed samples are regarded as acceptable.
5.4.2 Tolerance of main specifications and dimensions
Tolerance of main specifications and dimensions is as follows:
——length direction: ± 2.0cm;
——width direction: ± 1.5cm;
——symmetry deviation: ≤ 1.0cm.
Note 1: The tolerance of main specifications and dimensions refers to the difference between the actual dimension and the design dimension or marked dimension of the tops length, width of chest (1/2 chest girth) and sleeve length of sweater; the trouser length, crotch depth and crotch of trousers; the skirt length and hip width (1/2 hip girth) of skirt, and the width and 1/2 length of scarf respectively.
Note 2: Symmetry deviation refers to the difference in symmetry of the same product, e.g., the length difference between the two sleeves of tops, and the length difference between the two trouser legs of trousers.
5.4.3 Seam elongation
The seam elongation for flat seam, overseam and chain seam are not less than 10%, 20% and 30% (including hand sewing) respectively. The seam elongation test results show the phenomenon of seam breakage or fabric breakage, which is judged as rejected.
5.4.4 Unfold dimension of neckhole
Children aged 7 and above and adults: ≥ 30cm; children under 7 years old: ≥ 28 cm; infants: ≥ 26cm. If the seam or fabric is fracture in the test result of unfold dimension of neckhole, it is judged as rejected.
Foreword i
1 Scope
2 Normative references
3 Term and definition
4 Product classification
5 Technical requirements
6 Test methods
7 Inspection rules
8 Acceptance rules
9 Package and marking
10 Other
Annex A (Nominative) Measuring part of patchwork garment in dimensional change rate by washing and dry cleaning
Annex B (Nominative) Description of appearance defect
