This document is developed in accordance with the rules given in GB/T 1.1-2020 Directives for standardization - Part 1: Rules for the structure and drafting of standardizing documents.
This document replaces FZ/T 81017-2012 Suits with no fusible interlining. In addition to editorial changes, the following main technical changes have been made with respect to FZ/T 81017-2012:
a) the name of the standard is modified, and it is defined that the applicable scope of the standard is full canvas suits; the provision that the standard does not apply to products for infant and young children is added (see Clause 1 hereof; Clause 1 of Edition 2012);
b) the definition of suits with no fusible interlining is modified, and the terms and definitions of wool type interlinings and back armhole allowance are added (see Clause 3 hereof; Clause 3 of Edition 2012);
c) the relevant requirements for garment for children aged 3 to 14 in GB 31701 are added (see 4.1 and 4.12 hereof);
d) the requirements for raw and accessory materials are modified (see 4.3 hereof; 4.3 of Edition 2012);
e) the requirements for warp and weft yarn directions are modified (see 4.4 hereof; 4.4 of Edition 2012);
f) the requirements for the degree of skewness of the striped pattern are added (see 4.5.1 hereof);
g) the provisions for color variation are modified (see 4.7 hereof; 4.7 of Edition 2012);
h) the requirements for visible defects are modified (see 4.8 hereof; 4.8 of Edition 2012);
i) the requirements for sewing are modified (see 4.9 hereof; 4.9 and 4.11 of Edition 2012);
j) the requirements for pressing are modified (see 4.11 hereof; 4.12 of Edition 2012);
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k) the requirements for fiber content, color fastness to perspiration, angle of recovery of total creasing and appearance after washing of the front wool type interlinings are added, and the requirement for seam performance is modified (see 4.12 hereof; 4.13 of Edition 2012);
l) the measurement method for dimensions are modified (see 5.2 hereof; 5.2 of Edition 2012);
m) the test methods for sharpness of tips and edges of attached components are added (see 5.3.6 hereof);
n) the test method for the safety performance of children garment is added (see 5.4.1 hereof);
o) the test method for dimensional change rate after dry cleaning is modified and the provision of using mild dry cleaning method is added (see 5.4.3 hereof; 5.4.6 of Edition 2012);
p) the test method for color fastness to light is modified (see 5.4.5 hereof; 5.4.10 of Edition 2012);
q) the test methods for surface fuzzing and pilling are modified (see 5.4.6 hereof; 5.4.11 of Edition 2012);
r) the test method for splitting is modified (see 5.4.7 hereof; 5.4.12 of Edition 2012);
s) the test method for the angle of recovery of total creasing of the front wool type interlinings is added (see 5.4.9 hereof);
t) the test method for the appearance after washing is added (see 5.4.10 hereof);
u) the requirement that the other physical and chemical performance items are tested according to GB/T 21294 is added (see 5.4.11 hereof);
v) the timing for type test is added (see 6.1.1 hereof);
w) the basis for determining appearance quality defects is modified (see 6.2.3 hereof; 6.2.2 of Edition 2012);
x) the reinspection requirement is modified (see 6.4.4 hereof; 6.4.4 of Edition 2012);
y) Annex A of Edition 2012 is deleted (see Annex A of Edition 2012).
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Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent rights. The issuing body of this document shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights.
This document was proposed by the China National Textile and Apparel Council.
This document is under the jurisdiction of SAC/TC 219 National Technical Committee on Garments of Standardization Administration of China.
The previous edition of this document is as follows:
——it was first issued as FZ/T 81017-2012 in 2012;
——this edition is the first revision.
Full canvas suits
1 Scope
This document specifies terms and definitions, requirements, inspection methods, inspection rules as well as marking, packaging, transportation and storage for full canvas suits.
This document is applicable to full canvas suits produced with pure wool, wool blended or interwoven woven fabrics as the main shell fabrics, and half canvas suits may be produced by reference to this document.
This document is not applicable to garments for infants aged 36 months and below.
2 Normative references
The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition (including any amendments) applies.
GB/T 250 Textiles - Tests for colour fastness - Grey scale for assessing change in colour
GB/T 1335 (all parts) Standard sizing systems for garments
GB/T 2910.4 Textiles - Quantitative chemical analysis - Part 4: Mixtures of certain protein and certain other fibers (method using hypochlorite)
GB/T 3819-1997 Textile fabrics - Determination of the recovery from creasing of a folded specimen by measuring the angle of recovery
GB/T 3917.2 Textiles - Tear properties of fabrics - Part 2 : Determination of tear force of trouser-shaped test specimens (single tear method)
GB/T 4802.1 Textiles - Determination of fabric propensity to surface fuzzing and to pilling - Part 1: Circular locus method
GB/T 4841.3 Colour cards of standard depths for dyeing with dyestuffs 2/1, 1/3, 1/6, 1/12, 1/25
GB/T 5296.4 Instructions for use of products of consumer interest - Part 4: Textiles and apparel
GB/T 5711 Textiles - Tests for colour fastness - Colour fastness to dry cleaning using perchloroethylene solvent
GB/T 8427-2019 Textiles - Tests for color fastness - Color fastness to artificial light: Xenon arc
GB/T 14304 Sizes for woolen suits
GB/T 14801 Test method for skewness and bow in woven and knitted fabrics
GB/T 15557 Standard terminology relating to apparel
GB 18401 National general safety technical code for textile products
GB/T 21294-2014 Testing methods of physical and chemical performance of garments
GB/T 21295-2014 Requirements of physical and chemical performance of garments
GB/T 29862 Textiles - Identification of fiber content
GB 31701 Safety technical code for infants and children textile products
GB/T 31702 Testing method for sharpness of attached components on textile products
GB/T 31907 Method of garment measurement
FZ/T 80002 Marking, packaging, transportation and storage for garments
FZ/T 80004 Rule for garments delivery inspection
FZ/T 80007.3 Dry wash resistance test method for garments used adhesive interlining
GSB 16-2921-2012 Standard sample photos of woolen fabric pilling
GSB 16-2924-2012 Standard sample photos of worsted fabric (smooth surface) pilling
GSB 16-2925-2012 Standard sample photos of worsted fabric (suede) pilling
Sample photos of appearance wrinkle on men’s suits (the Ministry of Textile Industry of the People's Republic of China)
Sample photos of appearance defects on M&F woolen garment (the Ministry of Textile Industry of the People's Republic of China)
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the terms and definitions given in GB/T 15557 as well as the following apply.
3.1
full canvas suits
high-grade suits produced by sewing technology with full canvas, which runs from shoulder to hem, and where no adhesive interlining is used for the front and facing (except for small parts requiring reinforcement, such as collar notches, darts, pocket mouths and front edges), which are light, thin, soft, stiff and fitting
Note 1: full canvas refers to the abbreviation of wool type interlining.
Note 2: full canvas suits are also called suits with no fusible interlining.
3.2
wool type interlinings
A hair interlining with warp yarns as pure wool, wool blended with chemical fibers, and weft yarns as two or more blended hair fibers or hair fibers blended with chemical fiber
B hair interlining with warp and weft yarns respectively as two or more blended hair fibers or hair fibers blended with and chemical fibers
[Source: FZ/T 64001-2020, 3.2]
3.3
back armhole allowance
longitudinal bulge on both sides of a back armhole of the suit so that when the arm is naturally drooping and still, the back armhole allowance is closed without wrinkling, and when the arm leans forward, the back armhole allowance is opened to allow arm activity
Foreword II
1 Scope
2 Normative references
3 Terms and definitions
4 Requirements
5 Inspecton methods
6 Inspecton rules
7 Marking, packaging, transportation and storage
