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This standard is drafted in accordance with the rules given in GB/T 1.1-2009.
This standard replaces GB/T 9127-2007 Tussah Silk Fabrics. The following technical changes have been made with respect to GB/T 9127-2007 (the previous edition):
— third-grade products is deleted from the grading requirements (see 4.2; 4.3 of Edition 2007);
— evaluating item of tearing strength is added, and the index value is specified (see 4.1, Table 1 in 4.4; Table 1 in 4.5 of Edition 2007);
— the index values of deviation rate in density, mass deviation rate, dimension change rate after washing are adjusted; dimension change rate after washing is divided into dimension change rate after washing and dyeing of refined fabrics and dimension change rate after washing of printed fabrics (see Table 1 in 4.4; Table 1 in 4.5 of Edition 2007);
— the appearance defect scoring is changed from the general limited cumulative scoring method to the four-point limited cumulative scoring method (see 4.5.1 and 4.5.2; 4.6.2.2, 4.6.2.3 and 4.6.2.4 of Edition 2007);
— packaging and marking are changed to in accordance with FZ/T 40007 (see Clause 7; Clauses 7 and 8 of Edition 2007).
This standard was proposed by China National Textile and Apparel Council.
This standard was prepared by SAC/TC 401 (National Technical Committee 401 on Silk Standardization Administration of China).
The previous editions of this standard are as follows:
— GB/T 9127-1988, GB/T 9127-2007.
Tussah Silk Fabrics
1 Scope
This standard specifies the terms and definitions, requirements, test methods, inspection rules, as well as packaging and marking of tussah silk fabrics.
This standard is applicable to the quality evaluation of refined, dyed, printed and yarn-dyed weaving pure tussah silk fabrics and silk fabrics with tussah silk as the main raw material of warp and interweaving other yarns for all kinds of clothing.
This standard is not applicable to the quality evaluation of tussah silk fabrics with special treated tussah silk as the raw material.
2 Normative References
The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.
GB/T 250 Textiles — Tests for Colour Fastness — Grey Scale for Assessing Change in Colour
GB/T 2910 (all parts) Textiles — Quantitative Chemical Analysis
GB/T 3917.2 Textiles — Tear Properties of Fabrics — Part 2: Determination of Tear Force of Trouser-shaped Test Specimens (Single Tear Method)
GB/T 3920 Textiles — Tests for Color Fastness — Color Fastness to Rubbing
GB/T 3921-2008 Textiles — Tests for Colour Fastness — Colour Fastness to Washing with Soap or Soap and Soda
GB/T 3922 Textiles — Tests for Colour Fastness — Colour Fastness to Perspiration
GB/T 3923.1 Textiles — Tensile Properties of Fabrics — Part 1: Determination of Breaking Force and Elongation at Breaking Force — Strip Method
GB/T 4666 Textiles — Fabrics — Determination of Width and Length
GB/T 4668 Textiles — Woven Fabrics — Determination of Number of Threads per Unit Length
GB/T 4669-2008 Textiles — Woven Fabrics — Determination of Mass per Unit Length and Mass per Unit Area
GB/T 5713 Textiles — Tests for Colour Fastness — Colour Fastness to Water
GB/T 6152 Textiles — Tests for Color Fastness — Color Fastness to Hot Pressing
GB/T 8170 Rules of Rounding off for Numerical Values & Expression and Judgement of Limiting Values
GB/T 8427-2008 Textiles — Tests for Colour Fastness — Color Fastness to Artificial Light: Xenon Arc Fading Lamp Test
GB/T 8628 Textiles — Preparation, Marking and Measuring of Fabric Specimens and Garments in Tests for Determination of Dimensional Change
GB/T 8629-2001 Textiles — Domestic Washing and Drying Procedures for Textile Testing
GB/T 8630 Textiles — Determination of Dimensional Change in Washing and Drying
GB/T 14801 Test Method for Skewness and Bow in Woven and Knitted Fabrics
GB/T 15552 Testing Methods and Inspection Regulations for Silk Fabrics
GB 18401 National General Safety Technical Code for Textile Products
GB/T 29862 Textiles — Identification of Fiber Content
GB/T 30557 Silk — Terminology for Defects of Woven Fabrics
FZ/T 01026 Textiles — Quantitative Chemical Analysis — Quaternary Fibre Mixtures
FZ/T 01057 (all parts) Test Method for Identification of Textile Fibres
FZ/T 40007 Packing and Marking Requirement for Silk and Filament Fabrics
3 Terms and Definitions
For the purpose of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
3.1
special treated tussah silk
special style of coarse denier tussah silk made from reeling or spinning of tussah cocoons or silkworms
3.2
knotted tussah silk
tussah silk with irregular thickness strip or fibre assemblies that is artificially twisted into the silk strips when reeling silk
4 Requirements
4.1 Requirements
4.1.1 Requirements for tussah silk fabrics include inherent quality and appearance quality. Inherent quality requirements include seven items: density deviation rate, mass deviation rate, breaking strength, tear strength, fiber content deviation, dimension change rate after washing, color fastness. Appearance quality requirements include three items: color difference (compared with standard sample), width deviation rate and appearance defects.
4.1.2 Mass deviation rate, breaking strength, tear strength, fibre content tolerance, dimension change rate after washing, color fastness are graded by batch. Density deviation rate, width deviation rate and appearance quality are graded by piece.
4.2 Grading
Quality of tussah silk fabrics is assessed based on the item with the lowest grade in the technical indexes of inherent quality and appearance quality and divided into superior products, first-grade products and second-grade products; the product inferior to second-grade products are off-grade products.
Foreword II
1 Scope
2 Normative References
3 Terms and Definitions
4 Requirements
5 Test Methods
6 Inspection Rules
7 Packaging and Marking
8 Other
Annex A (Informative) Appearance Defect Classification Table
